Ah, locally sourced food. The very concept tickles the average new urbanite’s fancy in ways that are sometimes difficult to explain to the outside observer. I’ve personally witnessed people giddy at the sight of heirloom tomatoes at the farmers market, and have read endless blog posts and articles about the virtue of “slow food.” I must confess, I’ve been decidedly unenthusiastic.
Before anybody gets any ideas about burning me in effigy at the opening day of this year’s Hub-City Farmers’ Market, you should know that It’s not because I don’t believe in local food. In fact, not more than 20 yards from the very spot where I’m typing right now there’s a chicken coop with about 15 hens in it, hens which lay some of the finest eggs I’ve ever had the pleasure of eating. In fact, on further consideration, the word unenthusiastic might be a little bit strong for what I’m actually trying to get across. I think I’m just naturally suspicious of movements primarily started by and for already well-fed and relatively well-off white people.
A large part of me, a part I’ve tried to suppress at times, wonders what the difference is between the rich asshole scarfing down a plate of foie gras at some upscale bistro and the “locavore” guy who absolutely insists that I must try some of his grass-fed locally raised steak that he spent about a third of the weekly wages of a minimum wage worker for. They’re both elitists, aren’t they?
I’m all for local food, but if all it’s ever going to do is serve as yet another means of separating the haves from the have-nots, count me out.
I know there are plenty of people out there working on community garden projects in poor neighborhoods, and believe me I’m not talking about them. In fact, I would go so far as to say that many of them are working on those projects because they see the same class problems in the local food movement that I see. We should support the efforts of those people and try to expand upon them as much as possible. What we need, is a large-scale community and backyard garden movement in Spartanburg.
What started me down this road, oddly enough, was a story last month in the Spartanburg Herald Journal about group of homeowners in Hillbrook Forrest filed a lawsuit against one of their neighbors for having chickens in the home’s backyard. Reading over the story, I was left with the impression that while the guy probably had more chickens than he should have, and they weren’t kept properly fenced in a coop with a roof, the homeowners mostly just didn’t like the fact that the guy had chickens in the backyard. Maybe it’s just my semi-rural upbringing coming out, but what the hell is wrong with keeping a few chickens in the backyard?
Again, 30 is probably too many, and they absolutely must be kept in a proper enclosure, but leaving that aside it seems to me that a few hens and a rooster in the backyard should fit right into the whole “slow food” ideology quite nicely. It doesn’t get much more local than your own backyard.
I was very lucky to grow up in a family that always kept a garden and for most of my life kept chickens as well. We even raised a hog every year back when I was very young. We didn’t describe what we did as “sustainable,” and though it normally was, we never called the food “organic,” but the concept is pretty much the same. I can’t help but think there would be some pretty obvious benefits to encouraging people to adopt some of those old practices. Bringing food in that you grew or raised yourself connects certain dots for people in a way that going to the grocery store never can.
If there’s going to be a local food revolution, then it should come from below. We need to be encouraging backyard gardens for those with the space and community gardens for those who don’t have the space. I’m picturing miniature farms all over the county with people gathering their own eggs, tilling chicken manure into the soil to fertilize their vegetable gardens, and composting the waste from the vegetable garden for next year.
In short, I picture an entire community of people learning things forgotten in the last generation or two, spinning that wheel of creation and cultivation again. It won’t save the planet or anything—as absurd an idea as that is anyway—but it will bring back something too many of us have lost, things that were so important in showing a piece of that ever elusive big picture. I can’t help but wonder what sorts of revelations that kind of shift in our community’s thinking might bring about.
Christopher George
I too remember my dad keeping a few chickens, one of my grandparents did as well. A back yard garden was the norm in many neighborhoods including mine growing up. I certainly remember being put on weed duty as a kid as well. I usually tried to at least grow herbs or a tomato plant, and this year I am going to give it another try, at least on the small herb garden scale.
I also vividly remember as a child going to the local farm to get butter, milk and eggs. I also learned first hand what an electric fence was. My folks always bought a beef from that farmer as well.
I see your point Chris, I didn’t see what was wrong with a few chickens in ones backyard. I also agree that 30 is extreme for a subdivided neighborhood. The idea of encouraging backyard gardens is a great one for all neighborhoods. A small garden is something the whole family can participate in and benefit from, and often neighbors can receive surpluses of a over-productive tomato or cucumber plant.
I am two generation from self-sustaining farmers on both branches of my family tree. My maternal grandfather told me the story of traveling home from Texas to Tennessee at twelve in 1910 in a covered wagon when his family returned to the family farm. He was the oldest of twelve children, the youngest born when he was 25 years old. I can’t even imagine my great-grandmother’s life! It would seem she was either pregnant or nursing for 25 years. Amazing! And all the while helping to run a farm and keep all those mouths fed.
Some of my fondest memories are fallowing my Grandaddy like a puppy up and down the rows picking strawberries and watermelons and even yucky squash. My Uncle Austin lived next door to my other Grandma and I loved chasing his chickens and gathering eggs there. The Cobbs, our lifelong neighbors at Grandma’s had a pigs and horses and real crops like corn and soybeans. My Grandma was a widow my whole life and her family and friends helped her with her garden and my summer memories are of front porch sittin’ and pea shellin’ and talkin’. I probably learned more from those old women by osmosis than I can recall. Everyone would drop by “Extra” produce from their gardens – but I know now they were really helping their widow friend stay fed all winter. They would can and freeze together. It really was amazing, now that I think about it.
My father’s occupation had us moving every year or two to different suburban areas in medium to large cities across the southeast through my childhood. My mother did her best to grow small plots of herbs and vegetables – especially yucky asparagus. Sadly, I have not kept up the tradition as well as I should have. I grow a pitiful few peppers and tomatoes and a few herbs but haven’t built a REAL garden in a long time.
My weekends at the different Grandparent homes in that little town in TN define my childhood much more than our more urbane living situation. Those long hot summer evenings when the coolest place to pass the time was the front porch swing and chasing fireflies in the yard stand out as perfect much more than cranking the air and watching 398 useless cable channels that my kids prefer. My dad would laugh and say on the weekends half the town would drive around around wave at the folks out on the front porch and then switch. It was like impromptu reunions parties. My parents’ high school chums would see us or our car at my grandparents house and stop and sit a spell. My mother has been dead thirty two years; I am now within two years of passing her age at death. I can still walk down main street in that tiny town that I visit oh so rarely and someone will say “Aren’t you Larry and Martha’s girl?” or “I sure miss your Grandma Minnie Mae.” and I won’t know them from Adam’s house cat.
Christopher, thank you for the added inspiration to plan better this year. Maybe I really will try to make Minnie Mae’s Chow Chow recipe this year – from the most local choices I am able to find and afford.
You know about that mobile chicken tractor I built for the chickens? It’s a design I came across on the internet–there’s tons and tons of different styles.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chicken_tractor
I don’t think I told you, but it’s original intent was to put some of your chickens in it and set it up over garden space. Then you gradually move down the row, and they eat all the weeds and grass, fertilize and soften and till over the ground by scratching.
When I finally get it mine, I’ll just mainly use it to put chickens in so I can move them onto fresh grass and insects everyday.
Also, not only are they great for keeping chickens on a diet of fresh clean forage and insects, these little chicken tractors are perfect for a small backyard. Like you said, 30 chickens are way too many for a neighborhood backyard. You don’t even need half that. Only 3-5 hens will put you at about 1-2 dozen eggs a week if they’re on a good pellet feed along with forage.
cool idea Katie.
And in response to this article, I went and bought a little herb starter kit from Home Depot. Should have parsley, chives, oregano and cilantro in a few weeks.
What I see that is good…
The Hub City Farmers’ Market accepts EBT (food stamps) and has a community action person who is working with communities in the county to start community gardens.
I worked the farmers’ market for about 2/3 of the season this past year and saw people from all walks of life shopping. Not only the elite. In fact many of the “elite” didn’t even know what to do with some of the vegetables offered.
That brings me to some things I see that could be improved on…
Educating people on not only good for you local food, but how to prepare such food.
It is so difficult to change the mindsets of people, but slowly working at it things can change.
I tried the “locavore” diet for a week…
http://joeysbrainwork.blogspot.com/2009/07/locavore.html
It wasn’t without it’s challenges, but wasn’t what I would consider cost prohibitive. I enjoyed cooking new things, and just being in the kitchen again.
I still shop at Ingles, Bi-Lo, Publix, etc, but when the market opens up again this Spring I’ll be there, supporting farmers…not because it’s the right thing to do but because fresher really does taste better.
I wanted to read your blog but the link didn’t work for me.